Travels with a Gourmet

a food lover's travels, memorable meals, culinary trials and gastronomic experiences

When we have house guests, I take advantage of them being here and I go along with them to explore parts of Bali that I’ve never been to.  Two high school friend are here on holiday and we decided to do a day trip to Bali’s eastern coast.  Although I had been once before to Manggis and Tenganan (ancient Balinese village), we decided to go a bit further up the coast to Amlapura where the Tirtagangga water palace is.  We set off right after breakfast and drove the hour and a half to Amlapura past Candi Dasa.  We reached Tirtagangga and were excited to arrive until we saw the water palace but were disappointed by how unexciting it was.  The structure was actually built in the 40’s and although the mountain spring pool was quite nice, the whole thing just seemed like a kitschy water park. 

We did a quick visit and walk around then went back down to Karangasem to have lunch at Amankila.  The view of the sea from the terraced infinity pools is stunning.  It would have been perfect, if not for the cargo ships and oil tankers in the distance.  After a simple lunch: beet and orange salad then salt crusted prawns with tamarind for M, a traditional Nasi Goreng for N and a stir-fried rice noodles and pork for me, we took the winding steps down to the beach club and the black-sand beach.  We settled into one of the beach bales and had some Kopi Bali while watching the waves crash to shore.  Long leisurely ladies lunch over, we backtracked to Tenganan where we meandered through the village till dusk and headed back home.
Manggis, Bali
Telephone: +62 363 41333

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